The Eight Foot Animated Witch
Project Parts List

  •        3 - 10' x 1" PVC Schedule 40 pipe
  •       4 - 1" PVC Caps
  •       4 - 1" PVC 90 deg. Elbow
  •       1 - 1" x 1" x 1" x 1" PVC Cross piece
  •       3 - 1" x 1" x 1" PVC T section
  •       4 - 1" x 1/2" PVC bushing
  •       4 - 2" x #6 machined screws w/nuts
  •       1 - Box 9/16ths x #8 wafer head screws (See Pic #2)
  •       PVC cleaner
  •       PVC Primer
  •       PVC Glue
  •       2' x 1/2"O.D. Flexible Plastic tubing
Start by taking the 3 10' x 1" PVC pipes and cutting them into the following lengths.  (Note: You will have
some left over, just save it for another project.)

  •        1 - 6" Neck
  •        2 - 5" Rear foot extension
  •        2 - 8" Front foot extension
  •        2 - 10" Hip extension
  •        2 - 14" Shoulder extension
  •        2 - 20" Bicep extension
  •        2 - 24" Forearm extension
  •        1 - 36" Torso section
  •        2 - 42" Leg Sections
  •        Pic # 1 shows most of the pieces
Now that everything is cut to length, take one of the T joints and the cross piece and cut two slots out of each side
using your Dremel tool and a cut off wheel.  Refer to pics #3, and #5 to get the idea. The pieces that will fit into
each of these sections will need to be sanded with a 100 grit sandpaper in order to make them a looser fit.  When
you start to feel the fit get easier,  step to an even finer grit to create a smooth finish on these ends.  More an this
later.

Glue together the pieces that will be the base of our witch. (Refer to pic #6)

Add the leg sections and the 90 degree hip section as well.  Do not glue the torso section, these will be screwed in
to place using the wafer head screws. (Pic #7 and #8)

Repeat these steps to create the upper body including the shoulders and upper arm. (Pic #9)

To create the flexible elbow and forearm, glue the bushing into the ends of the forearm and upper arm (You will
need to sand the inner part of the tube with a Dremel tool and a barrel sander) and once dry, drill a hole
large enough to accommodate the machine screws.  Now connect all the parts with the screws and you will have
the frame to any type of human type figure with several pivot points. (Pic #10)

If you need more pivot points, just cut slots in th 90 degree pieces and screw them in as well.  On a final note paint
everything black or white depending on what you are creating and spray a little silicon lubricant on the moving
joints for a smoother operation.  Pic #11 shows the finished frame.

Note: All pics are thumbnails, double click to enlarge.
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These are the hands I will put on the witch
and they will be firmly wrapped around a
pole into a cauldron she will be stirring.  I
got these from www.halloweenasylum.com
(not affiliated with this site)
I used a coated semi stiff wire to make the hands frame which I
inserted into the witch hands.  This was much like putting gloves
on a little child during winter.  If you have ever done it you know
how difficult it is.  I preformed the hands as much as possible
for placement around the pole and then put expanding foam into
each individual finger and let cure.  When that was complete, I
did the palm of the hand.  This gives the finger stuff someplace
to go without getting overbearing.  The wire extends beyond the
glove to allow for attachment to the frame.
Here is the finished head.  Once I got
through the steps listed below, I used
Great Stuff Window & Door Foam
to fill in the chin area of the mask.  
The foam crawled out onto the face
of the mask like a worm so I left it
for effect.
The hands are now ready for mounting.
I found Styrofoam heads at Sally Beauty Supply for just $3.60 ea.  They conveniently come with a
5/8ths inch hole in the neck which is perfect for attaching to 1/2 inch PVC. (Remember, use PL300
Foam board adhesive!)


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Hey guess what...I modified this prop for more animation possibilities.  Click the Bat to see
what I did.  I think you'll really like this.